What is Electronic Leak Detection?

Maybe you’ve heard the term and are wondering, what is electronic leak detection? And how can it help me? Today’s homes are primarily built on concrete slabs, which makes early leak detection difficult. If your water usage fluctuates without incident or you notice an increase in usage, there may be a small to substantial leak under your slab, without you having any way to know about it. All water leaks create some amount of noise, even if imperceptible to our ears. Different types of leaks have different sound frequencies determined by the degree of pressure in the pipes. An electronic leak detector can pick up these frequencies, and a professional who is trained to understand the acoustics of plumbing can decipher these sounds. An electronic leak detector can find leaks in toilets, drains, water systems, steam pipes, and pipes that transport other liquids, such as oil.

The electronic leak detector has a transducer which is sensitive to the types of sound that come from pipe systems. When a sound is registered on the machines it is transmitted to the security system at a higher frequency. A plumbing technician will assess all information regarding where a potential leak may be happening and use an electronic leak detector, line tracing equipment, camera inspection, and static pressure testing to locate the specific source of the leak. Even a very small leak can cause cracks in the slab and flooding damage. By utilizing the current technology and understanding how they work to create a full ‘picture’ of what is happening out of sight, a leak can be detected long before the homeowner would become aware, avoiding severe and costly water damage to their home.

 

HVAC AC Refrigerant Leak Detectors

Refrigerants leak from HVAC systems due to the deterioration of joints, fittings, or parts that are welded, which become faulty with time. Leaks might be low as 1 oz every few years, but also might be much greater, such as a few ounces per day. Losing refrigerant means compromised performance of an AC cooling system, as well as greater expenses.

Measuring refrigerant leaks is important from two points of view: economic loss and environmental pollution. EPA rules mandate proper practices in refrigerant leak detection and you want to ensure compliance with these regulations.

What methods do are used to find leaks in HVAC AC cooling systems?

Traditionally, an HVAC service tech would use the soap bubble test, a visible method to detect leaks of any refrigerant. However, this method is not the most accurate and is difficult to implement in hard-to-reach places.

Another method, using a fluorescent dye, is also a visible way to see leaks. It works with any refrigerant; however, a dye must be added to the system, and a special UV light be used in the inspection. Again, inspection of leaks in hard-to-reach places is difficult to perform.

Currently, the most popular method is facilitated by the use of electronic refrigerant leak detectors. This method is the most accurate; however, one must remember to monitor the sensor’s condition as well as calibrate the instrument periodically.

 

What are a types of electronic leak detectors?

Corona discharge is one of the most traditional types. In this method, air with gases passes through an electrical field around an electrode and an electric arc (discharge) breaks down refrigerants, which are detected by a sensor and “reported” with an alarm signal (sound).

Heated diode refrigerant leak detector is a second popular type in which a heater close to a diode breaks down gases, yielding a change in current flow through diode. Such a change triggers the alarm resulting in audible leak detection.In the heated electrolyte method gases are broken down as they go over electrolytic material in the sensor. Again, the resulting change of current flow triggers the audible alarm.

Sensors using corona discharge, heated diode, or heated electrolyte detectors need to be changed quite often, so proper monitoring of their use is necessary.

Infrared refrigerant leak detectors are the best option, as their sensors typically last over 1000 hours – equivalent to over 5 years of use. In this method an air sample with gases passes through an optical window of a sensor and the refrigerants absorb IR radiation. An alarm gets triggered by the amount of IR radiation absorbed and carried over the sensor. This is by far the most accurate method, as it had been used in laboratory settings for many years and now is available to HVAC technicians.

Finally, there is an ultrasonic refrigerant leak detector, one that uses sound amplification to detect leaks. Gases passing through orifices or breaks in pipes produce a high pitch sound not detectable by a human ear but easily recorded by ultrasonic leak detector. The method is great, but the main shortcoming is that very small leaks don’t produce enough sound and they might not be detectable.

 

High Voltage Electronic Leak Detection (HVELD)

High Voltage Electronic Leak Detection (HVELD) can be performed on vertical or horizontal surfaces under dry conditions. The principle of the HVELD process involves a generator that delivers an adjustable stabilized direct current (DC) output voltage for the detection of breaches to the electrically insulated roof or waterproofing membrane.

The generator emits a calibrated voltage discharge which conducts through membrane penetrations to a grounded earth lead, such as a metal drain body or steel reinforcing embedded in the concrete slab. Should the current make contact with the ground, this will complete the circuit emitted by the generator. An audible beep from the test equipment alerts the technician of the breach. Small sparks can sometimes be seen or heard when a breach location is contacted by the probe.

The initial test voltage is based on the thickness of the waterproofing membrane and is verified (calibrated) by creating a sample breach in a typical section of membrane being tested to ensure detection levels are appropriate. In the case of liquid applied membranes, properly calibrated HVELD equipment can also detect locations where the membrane does not meet the minimum thickness requirements, even if no breach is present.

 

HVELD Limitations

Multiple false positives are possible with this type of testing if the equipment is not properly calibrated for project specific materials. Due to the high voltage, testing should not be performed in inclement weather or in wet or moist conditions for the safety of the testing operator. HVELD is also not successful if the membrane is conductive, such as black ethylene propylene diene monomer (EPDM).

HVELD can only be performed over conductive substrates, such as metal decking and concrete. If a conductive substrate is not present, it is possible to create a conductive substrate by installing a metal mesh or screen prior to the installation of the waterproofing membrane. However, the waterproofing membrane manufacturer must be consulted to confirm that the presence of an embedded screen or mesh material will not adversely affect the membrane material or void the warranty.

Low Voltage Electronic Leak Detection (LVELD)

Low Voltage Electronic Leak Detection (LVELD) is performed on horizontal surfaces using water as a conductive medium on the surface of the waterproofing membrane. Multiple types of LVELD testing equipment and setups are available. The principle of the LVELD process involves a perimeter conductor loop placed on the surface of the membrane. The conductor loop is then connected to an electrical pulse generator. The generator is also connected to the grounded portion (e.g., reinforcing steel or a metal drain body) of the substrate below the membrane.

ALL ABOUT KITCHEN FAUCET

What is a 4 Hole Kitchen Faucet

When choosing a new kitchen faucet, there are many features to consider, from handle styles to spout options. Perhaps the most important consideration, however, is mounting style. When purchasing a faucet, homeowners need to make sure that their preferred mounting style is compatible with their sink’s layout.

Inspect the Sink

Before searching for a new faucet, homeowners have to inspect their sink. Each sink has a specific number of mounting holes. When it comes to kitchen sinks, most come equipped with one to four mounting holes. The more holes the sink has, the more faucet features they can accommodate. Ahead, learn more about the various mounting hole configurations.

One Hole Faucets

When sinks have one mounting hole, they are outfitted with one-handle faucets.

Two Hole Faucets

Two hole faucets come in several configurations. Some of them have the same basic structure as single hole faucets, and the second hole is used for an additional feature, like a soap dispenser. Other two hole faucets use a stylish bridge structure.

Three Hole Faucets

Many kitchen sinks are equipped with three hole faucets; the faucet is installed in the middle hole, and the two handles are installed on the outer holes. While this layout is standard, three-hole configurations can sometimes accommodate additional sink features. For example, pull-out sprayers do not require an extra hole, and they’re often used with three hole faucets.

Four Hole Faucets

Four-hole faucets are also very popular, as they allow for greater versatility than the other options. The faucet uses one hole, the handles use two, and an additional feature is installed in the fourth hole. These features range from dispensers to sprayers to air gaps.

 

Should Be Leak-free for Lifetime

Changing gaskets and washers after every few months belongs to the past. Also, the valves used in modern kitchen faucets have significantly evolved. Most faucets now contain hard ceramics as valves, which are sometimes covered with diamond. With the use of these valves, it’s almost impossible for them to wear out as fast as they used to. Also, they don’t leak their entire lifetime. Therefore, if you find yourself constantly changing gaskets and washers, it’s time to invest in a quality kitchen faucet, and you will not come across such issues anymore. Apart from saving you money and time, the best kitchen faucet will also ensure a stream and precise water flow.

 

Special Features

• The most popular faucet feature lately is an integrated pull-down or pull-out spray. Sleeker than the traditional side spray, these allow for the ultimate in coverage and flexibility, and free up space on the sink deck or counter. The best pull-sprays will use braided nylon or even braided stainless steel sheathing on their hoses for extended life.
• When looking for a pull spray faucet, take extra care to read listings and reviews carefully. Because they’re handled more than a traditional faucet, the build quality of these faucets has to be superior if they’re to hold up to the rigors of a busy kitchen.
• If you’re more interested in a side sprayer, be sure that your new sink will have the correct number of holes, or that you can successfully add a hole to your existing sink.
• ADA-compliant faucets will be labeled as such, adhering to the various specifications regarding range and ease of operation. Be aware that some faucets have multiple handle options, and often only one of those options (usually lever or wrist blade handles) will be ADA-compliant – so purchase carefully! Sinks have even more ADA standards to meet, so make sure everything is up to snuff there, as well.
• Touchless faucets are a dream come true for germaphobes, and another option rising in popularity. Rather than having to physically manipulate the faucet controls when your hands are covered in raw chicken, a simple wave in front of the sensor (or with some models, a light tap with the wrist/forearm – similar to a touch lamp) turns the faucet on and off. These faucets do require power, supplied by batteries or an AC power adapter; some models will allow for either. You’ll need to make sure you have an electrical outlet nearby, or spare batteries on-hand.

 

Check the Water Lines

Make sure the new kitchen faucet you want is compatible with the water supply lines. Look under your sink towards the bottom of the cabinet and note the size of the existing water line and the shutoff valves.

Here are a few guidelines to use when checking your water lines and valve:

• If you’re unsure what size your water lines are, measure them with a measuring tape.
• Though you may have to hunt for it, the size should be etched onto the valve.
• Note that an older home may not have a shutoff valve.
• Many newer faucets come with 3/8-inch flex lines attached. If the existing water shutoff valves are 1/2-inch in size, you’ll need to change out the shut-off valves to 3/8-inch valves before installing the new faucet.
• It’s typically a good idea to replace the shut-off valves when installing a new faucet, anyhow, since an old valve may fail if you need to shut off the water for leaks or other repairs.

 

Related Questions

My faucet hole size is too small for the faucet I purchased recently. What should I do? You have two options. One, to exchange the recently purchased faucet with one that matches the configuration. Or, to increase the hole size to accommodate the purchased faucet. You can either do it yourself using a power drill or hire a professional in your area.

 How to cover extra sink holes? You can use escutcheon plates to cover the extra sink holes. If the holes are too far apart, you can use single-hole cover plates to cover them up. Most faucets come with extra cover plates in case you need them.

What Is The Ideal Thickness Of A Faucet Hole? Faucet hole thicknesses can vary from fixture to fixture. Thus, it would be wise to refer to the specification to find out the maximum deck thickness.

How Many Holes Are Required For A Faucet Installation? The number of holes required for a faucet installation depends on the type of fixture. Generally, they tend to range between single to four hole fixtures. Where, the soap dispenser occupies the fourth hole.

Can I drill my own faucet hole? Yes, you can. Choose the appropriate bit for the hole and use a power drill with a guide to do the job. First, make sure you mark exactly where you need to drill. Never drill on the actual sink before practicing a few times on a slab or similar material. Once you get the feel for it, you can drill your sink. Be steady when holding the drill. While drilling, apply pressure gradually, allowing the drill to do the work.

How to Unblock a Toilet Drain in Your Home

Being able to unblock a toilet drain in your home can save you valuable time and money. Blocked toilets can happen for several reasons, but most are not serious can be removed by following a few easy steps.

Before attempting to unblock your toilet drain, first, apply some damage limitation. Don’t repeatedly flush your toilet to remove a blockage – it may overflow and then you’ll have a mess to clear up as well as a blocked toilet drain.

1. Source & Locate the Problem

If the cause of the toilet blockage is visible, put on a pair of rubber gloves and remove it. If you cannot see the cause of the blockage then it’s time to experiment.

2. Add Dishwasher Liquid & Hot Water

Keep your rubber gloves on and drop a small amount of dishwashing liquid and a half bucket of hot water, pour it into the toilet bowl from waist height and leave for a few minutes.

3. Plunge the Toilet to Loosen Blockage

Choose a heavy-duty plunger with a flange on its base. Place the plunger completely over the hole at the bottom of the toilet bowl until it is submerged in water. Press down firmly and slowly. Repeat.

4. Hook Toilet Blockage With Coat Hanger

Next, try using an unravelled wire coat-hanger to hook the blockage. This technique is most effective when the toilet blockage is in the first 5cm – 10cm of the drain.

5. Remove Deeper Blockages With a Plumbing Snake/Auger

If the blockage is too deep to unblock with a coat hanger, a plumbing ‘snake’ or ‘auger’ is great at removing difficult toilet blockages. A plumbing auger is a coiled wire that can ‘snake’ through twists and turns in drains. Due to its high flexibility, a plumbing auger is incredibly effective in locating and removing deep toilet blockages.

6. Enzyme-Based Chemicals

Another method to unblock your toilet is utilising enzyme-based chemicals to break down the solid matter that is causing the blockage. This will only work on organic matter (not objects or hair) and takes some time for effects to take place. Alternatively, find a bucket and half fill it with hot water, baking soda and vinegar. This water-based solution is a great alternative to enzyme-based chemicals and is very effective at breaking down solid matter.

 

How To Clear Blocked Drains – DIY

The methods for draining a blocked drain depends on whether the clog is partial or full-on. The former, or partial clog, will allow at least some water down the drain. The latter, however, means the drains are fully blocked and no water is going down at all.

Refresh your drains with soda!

Ever heard that a nail put in a glass of soda will dissolve and eventually disappear with time? It’s true. This may take you by surprise – soda is great for vanquishing a clog in your drains. It can even be more effective than many commercial clog removers packed with strong dissolving agents

Clear a Blocked Sink with Boiling Water

This is an easy DIY method of unclogging a blocked drain pipe. The high temperatures in hot boiling water should be able to do the work.

Use vinegar and baking soda to remove clogs

Pour half a packet of baking soda down the clogged drain without adding any water. Then add half a cup of vinegar down the pipe. Use a metal stopper or some rags to stop up the drain and let the two substances react for 30 minutes. Remove the stopper and pour hot water down the drain.

Plunger for more stubborn clogs

A hand plunger may be necessary for a sink or toilet that has a large, stubborn obstruction. The suction action of the plunger can help to dislodge clogs so they can be washed away down the drain.

 

What to Do If Your Main Sewer Drain Is Clogged

Don’t run the water or flush the toilet! If you don’t add water to your drain system, you can’t make the problem worse (that is, if the clog is in your line and not the city’s main; see below). As an added precaution, you can shut off the main water supply to the house so that no one runs the water by accident. Tell everyone in the house not to use water, then call a plumber or drain specialist to have the drain cleared. These professionals have special equipment, including motorized augers, to quickly and effectively remove large clogs in the main sewer drains.

 

The Most Common Methods to unblock a Toilet

If the toilet bowl is not overflowing, you can use a drain-opening chemical to soften or break down the materials that are causing the blockage. Pour the chemical into the toilet bowl and leave it for about 15 minutes. This should loosen up the blockage. The water level should go down at this point which indicates that the blockage is moving and the toilet may eventually drain on its own. When the water level is low, flush it once to finally clear out the blockage.

Use the Toilet Plunger

The plunger you use must have a fold out rubber cup that is definitely designed for the opening of a toilet trap.

Thrust the plunger into the opening then pull it back without the cup leaving the opening. Use an even force when thrusting and pulling back the plunger to have a solid close on the opening. Repeat it several times until you see the water go down to a low level.

Finally, flush the bowl once. If the water is still slow in going down, repeat the plunging process again.

If the problem still persists, do the next option which is the toilet auger and it is shaped like the letter “J” with a cable and a handle. Fully expose the tip of the cable by pulling the handle all the way out.

Introduce the tip of the auger into the opening of the toilet trap. Gradually drive the handle forward through the opening and turn the auger at the same time.

When all you can see is just the handle pull out the whole length and repeat the process at least 3 times to ensure the blockage has been removed.

 

How to Unclog Your Toilet with a Plunger

Get your clogged toilet back up and running again the good old-fashioned way—with a plunger and some serious elbow grease. Here’s how to restore your toilet to working order in just six easy steps:

1. If the toilet bowl is already filled to the brim, manually remove enough water to use the plunger without splashing or overflowing in the plunging process. We recommend using a small bowl or bucket to gently scoop out excess water to give your plunging process some space.
2. Gently place the plunger in the toilet bowl, lowering it gradually and letting air from inside the plunger bubble out.
3. Form a snug seal around the opening at the bottom of the toilet bowl. You’re now in position to push the clog out of the pipe.
4. Begin to plunge firmly into the toilet with a straight, up-and-down motion. The plunger should force the existing water into the trapway of the toilet and into the pipes and push the blockage out. If the toilet is successfully plunged, you should see the water level in the toilet bowl diminish.
5. Fill a large container with a gallon of water, and carefully pour it into the toilet bowl. The water level of the toilet bowl should go down, indicating that the blockage has been removed.
6. If the water level does not drop, continue plunging and pouring water until the clog is dislodged.

Tips for Keeping Your Garbage Disposal in Top Shape

DO run the garbage disposal every few days.

Even if you don’t have to grind any food scraps up, you should run the appliance with cold water to keep the blades from rusting from lack of use. This also gives any food that might have stuck to the sides of the appliance from a previous use will another chance to wash out.

DON’T send fibrous, starchy, or hard leftovers down the drain.

Avoid all that can break the appliance or gum up the works; if you’re uncertain, check to see if it made this list of no-nos. The garbage disposal is best saved for ice cubes and softer foods—and even those should be cut up small before sent down.

DO power down your garbage disposal when you need to repair or clean it.

Safety first: Unplug the unit or cut power to the kitchen at the circuit breaker before taking any action to prevent the worst from happening while you work around the bladed appliance.

DON’T use your fingers to pull out any clogs.

Instead, avoid injury from the blades by using pliers or tongs to remove any scraps that have not been finely ground up.

DO try untangling any fibers wrapped around your garbage disposal’s blade using the wrench that came with your unit

With that tool, you simply turn the nut at the base of the unit, then press the small red reset button in the center, and flip the switch to restart.

 

Buyer’s Guide: Garbage Disposals

They’re one of the handiest kitchen helpers, grinding food waste into tiny bits so it can drain away with sink water. Garbage disposals are not only great for post-meal cleanup, they also reduce the amount of leftover food in the trashcan, which cuts down on odors.

A typical garbage disposal will last eight to 15 years, but if yours is on the fritz—or you’d like to add one to your appliance arsenal—you’re probably wondering what to look for in a unit.

All garbage disposals will pulverize soft foods with ease, but some do tend to jam while trying to grind raw fibrous vegetables, such as celery. At the same time, some of the most powerful disposals will chew right through chicken bones!

Read on for the facts, figures, and features—and check out our top three picks based on independent reviews and customer ratings—to find the best garbage disposal for you and your needs.

Before You Buy

Not all municipal sewage systems can handle food waste from garbage disposals. Because bits of food will be flowing through the drainpipes, using a garbage disposal can increase the risk of clogs in your home’s plumbing, or possibly even cause problems beyond your home (in a septic system, for example, or in the municipal sewage system). In addition, using a continuous-feed model, the most common type of disposal, increases water usage, because you must run water continuously while operating the unit.

 

TIPS TO KEEP YOUR GARBAGE DISPOSAL RUNNING RIGHT

Run Disposal Regularly

Run your garbage disposal on a regular basis. Even if you don’t have anything to grind up, turn on the water and run the disposal every few days to move the parts around. Otherwise, the disposal can freeze up, rust, or corrode; and any leftover food inside can harden, leading to odors and clogs.

Use Cold Water

Run cold water—not hot—when using your garbage disposal. Hot water works great for cleaning most things, but not your garbage disposal.

Run Disposal Longer

After your garbage disposal has finished grinding up the waste, keep it and the water running for a minute. This ensures that all the food has been flushed out the drain pipe to prevent clogs.

Cut Waste into Small Pieces

Your garbage disposal is only so big, and its blades and motor are only so powerful, so don’t expect miracles if you feed it large chunks of meat or fruit.

Grind Citrus Fruit

Soap and cold water will go a long way toward keeping your garbage disposal clean; but once in a while, toss the peel from an orange, lemon, or lime in your disposal.

 

EASY TIPS FOR MAINTAINING THE GARBAGE DISPOSAL

When the kitchen garbage disposal is running properly, it is a great appliance. It keeps your kitchen smelling fresh and clean. It makes cleaning up after dinner easy. It even reduces the amount of garbage in the landfills. But when the disposal isn’t working properly, the decaying food remaining in the appliance can make your kitchen or even your whole house stink. It is easy to avoid this problem by regularly following five easy tips recommended by plumbers.

Use plenty of water. Every time you run your disposal, turn on the cold water while the food is being chopped up. After you hear the grinding of the motor turn into a soft whir, turn off the device and let the water continue to run for about 10 to 20 seconds. The running water will carry any remaining particles out of the disposal and will more completely flush the pipes.

Use cold water. While hot water won’t damage the parts, cold water is better while running the disposal. Hot water will liquefy greases and fats. When they are in liquid form, grease adheres to the blades and will build up on them.

Avoid hard or fibrous foods. Disposals are for foods that grind into bits and pieces easily. Hard seeds, popcorn kernels, peach stones, apple seeds, or bones don’t grind very well, if at all. The smaller pieces can get wedged underneath the blades causing them to jam. Fibrous foods should be avoided, also, because the fibers tend to wrap themselves around the blades causing them to jam, too. Therefore, avoid onion skins, egg shells, celery stalks, corn husks, etc.

Clean the inside. Over time, it is natural for sludge to build up on the sides and blades of your appliance. It is best to avoid using harsh chemicals since they can damage the parts of your device. You can get a natural chemical reaction by putting baking soda down the drain and pouring vinegar on top of it. Another easy method is to combine the sharpening with the cleaning by putting about a cup of rock salt down the drain when you grind up your ice cubes.

 

TRICKS FOR RETRIEVING ITEMS FROM THE GARBAGE DISPOSAL

You’re standing over the sink washing some veggies and all the sudden you look down and notice your wedding ring is missing. Uh oh, it must have slipped off and slithered its way down the garbage disposal. Your heart stops as you let out a huge gasp, and perhaps shed a few tears because there is no way you’re going to stick your hand down there.

Don’t fret, because with our handy tricks, the battle between the ring and the garbage disposal ends here. But if you’re still unsure about fishing it out yourself, give your local Roto-Rooter professional a quick call.

First things first, it is extremely important to always use caution when you go to retrieve anything from the garbage disposal. Before sticking your hand or a tool down there, completely turn the power to the disposal off, as well as the main water supply to stop the flow.

GRAB A MAGNET

Before you proceed with this trick, make sure you are dealing with metallic items only or else you’ll be fishing around your disposal for days. To retrieve that ring, tie a long piece of string around a heavy-duty magnet and slowly lower it into the garbage disposal. Use those fishing skills and wiggle the magnet around a bit. You just might have some luck!

USE KITCHEN UTENSILS TO RETRIEVE NONMETAL ITEMS

Use a flashlight to locate nonmetal items that may have fallen down the disposal. Should you see anything, try to retrieve it with tongs, wooden spoons or another long kitchen utensil. Whatever you do, avoid sticking your hand down there – it’s sharp!

MOST COMMON CAUSES OF BURST PIPES

As a homeowner, it’s important to understand the potential damage from a leak. If left unrepaired, it can result in wastewater – encouraging unwanted growth and smells in your home. However, preventing this kind of damage isn’t always straightforward (especially for homeowners with little to no plumbing experience).

A big reason for this is you can’t see most of the pipework in your home, so you may not always know when a leak is present. However, by understanding and recognizing the  most common causes of a leak, you can contact a plumber early and fend off potential disaster.

Broken Seals

Not all plumbing consists of metal pipes. When appliances are installed, a contractor places rubber sealant around any connections or areas like your dishwasher door to keep everything watertight. As your appliances age, the sealing can degrade and even break over time. If you’ve noticed condensation on your appliances or puddles near them, you may have a broken seal.

Clogged Lines

While a clog may not seem like an urgent threat, some can lead to overflowing or even burst pipes. This causes pressure to build up behind the blockage, potentially leading to structural damage. And if a clog consists of corrosive substances like household chemicals, it can speed up the damage to your pipes.

Damaged Pipe Joints

One of the most vulnerable areas of a pipe is its joints. Joints consist of separate curved pieces attaching to straight pipes on either side and are responsible for redirecting water throughout your home.

Over time, extreme temperatures and excess water pressure can be hard on pipe joints – causing them to deteriorate. If pipes are making a ticking or banging noise (especially when you’re running hot water), chances are that you’re experiencing joint issues.

High Water Pressure

High water pressure can feel amazing in the shower, but the harder your water hits the inside of your pipes, the greater your risk of eventual leaks. In extreme cases, incorrect pressure can cause pipes to burst. Most pipes and faucets can only withstand water pressure of 60 psi. If you’re concerned about your pressure or have noticed leaking, have a licensed plumber test the pressure and make any adjustments.

 

CORROSION

Pipes are meant to last a long time and the vast majority of them provide many decades of reliable service. However, that doesn’t mean pipes will last indefinitely. Sometimes years of slow building corrosion will cause a pipe to fail. Corrosion can be caused by a pH imbalance in the water, a minor issue at first that over time becomes more takes its toll on water pipes. If you have hard water and your water supply pipes are made of galvanized iron, the minerals inside the water slowly wear down the galvanized coating (which itself can cause dangerous lead poisoning) and expose the iron pipe beneath. In time, the iron turns to rust (iron oxide) and gradually narrows the diameter of the pipe so that water can barely get through the pipe. Your pipe may burst or it may just close itself off and prohibit water flow altogether.

 

Improper Connections

Pipe connections are perhaps the most vulnerable points of the entire pipework. Weak and improper pipe connectivity can expose water pipes to extreme pressure, therefore acting as the immediate point of bursting in case of a slight pressure buildup. It is important that these connections are appropriately reinforced to prevent issues.

In conclusion, the bursting of water pipes is a common occurrence that is attributable to instances of improper pipework or an unequal subjection of water pressure. Whenever they occur, repairs should be done with immediacy to avoid the subsequent leakages that may cut off water supply and lead to massive losses.

 

Prevention of Burst Pipes

Burst pipes can be devastating, so anything you can do to minimise the risk of a Burst Pipe happening in your home. As with most systems and parts of your home prevention is by far the best solution, below we have highlighted several key things you can do to.

1. Make sure you know where your stop cock is. If you do not know where your stopcock is or how to operate it then please take a look at our blog on main stopcock.
2. Ensure that any outside taps and piping including drain pipes for heating or overflow pipes are insulated. You can use insulating lagging or foam to do this but make sure you do not leave any joints, bends or taps exposed. For outside taps fitted covers are available.
3. Any piping that are in unheated areas such as lofts, basements and garages all need to be lagged with good quality pipe lagging.
4. Any pipes buried in the ground outside such as pipes to garages or sheds need to be buried deep enough and/or lagged.
5. Insulate your cold water tank, this is so often forgotten and can be the major cause of Burst Pipes.

 

Steps to Take When a Pipe Bursts

No one can deny that owning a home is a major expense, especially if it’s a mature model. When it comes to a busted water pipe, the damage can be serious for your home, your possessions, and your health if the mess is not cleaned up properly.

1. Stop the water

First thing, turn off the water flow when you suspect a pipe has broken, even if you don’t know where the water’s coming from. You’ll find the stop tap on the water main. It is typically located under the kitchen sink or where the main service pipe connects to your house. Every family member should know the location of the water shut-off stopcock for emergencies.

2. Locate the broken pipe and inspect the damage

After draining all the excess water, locate the burst pipe. Inspect the damage and consider where the pipe is located before you run off to the home improvement store. Regardless of the damage or size of the break, a major water pipe will take more time and effort to replace because it holds more water and leads to additional connections, as opposed to a single pipe under the bathroom sink.

3. Repair the burst pipe

Fixing a rupture or crack in non-main pipes is usually fairly straightforward, but it can become expensive depending on the mending material you choose. Here is an inexpensive repair for small cracks and water breaks that also gives you superior hold.

You’ll need an extra-long length of ordinary garden hose and two or three hose clamps or similar grips that produce extreme constriction. Measure the fissure or crack and cut the garden hose about ten inches longer than needed to fill the broken area.

Next, slice the garden hose so you can slip it over the crack or burst in the water pipe. Using the hose clamps or similar brackets, hold the hose portion over the busted area and compress it as tight as it will go. Test your repair by turning on the water.

4. Bring in a professional drying crew

If the water from the burst pipe is on the walls or ceilings as well as the floor, contact a professional water restoration company. Simply using fans and open windows to dry a soaked area is an invitation to mold, mildew, and even serious illness for your family. You will also want to shut off the electrical power to that area of the house as a precaution against shocks.

If you have successfully restored your home to its original state or fixed a burst pipe on your own, congratulations! Be sure to run the cold water, then the hot water; and don’t forget to flush the toilets before normal usage begins.